Are you considering removing a wall but not sure if it’s load-bearing?
As a home inspector in two U.S. states, I frequently get asked about load bearing walls and how to tell them apart from partition (non-load bearing) walls.
In this guide, we’ll cover how:
- Load-bearing walls run at right angles (perpendicular) to floor joists.
- Blueprints can reveal load-bearing walls.
- Wall thickness over 5 inches may indicate it’s load-bearing.
- Posts or columns in the basement can reveal a structural wall.
- Removal costs range from $2,500 to $8,000+.
- Hiring a structural engineer is essential for safe removal
14 Ways To Tell That A Wall Is Load Bearing
Way #1: Look At The Floor Joists
Load bearing walls typically run perpendicular (or at a right angle) to the floor joists.
In fact, this is the most common way to quickly tell if a wall is load bearing.
The idea is that the floor joists or roof rafters above are resting on the interior wall which is holding the weight.
If an interior wall is running parallel to the floor joists, it is likely NOT load bearing. However, there is a remote possibility that the interior wall is supporting a single floor joist or beam.
The easiest way to know the direction of the floor joists is to look in the attic or the basement.
Most basements are at least partially unfinished such as in a closet, utility room, or under the stairs — where you can see the joists. Homeowners can also use a stud finder to determine joist direction.
You can read my guide on how to find wall studs without a stud finder here that can also help you find the joists.
Way #2: Look For Attic Bracing (Purlins)
Older houses that use rafters instead of roof trusses commonly have rafter bracing installed known as purlins to help support the weight of the roof.
Purlins are horizontal pieces of wood installed on the rafters or joists.
Purlins are connected to the rafters with struts which transfers the weight from the roof to the interior wall below.
When you look in the attic, if you see wood supports (struts) installed directly on top of an interior wall then it is load bearing. The purlins transfer the weight of the roof downwards to the load-bearing interior wall.
Way #3: Look in Basement For Post, Column, Or Pier
Go into the basement and look for any columns, posts, or piers.
If you can align a column or post in the basement with any interior wall on the floor directly above it — then it is likely to be load bearing.
Take a tape measurer and measure from the post and to exterior wall. Go to the floor above it and measure out the same distance to see if it lines up with the post.
Just remember: the post or column may be covered with drywall or it may be hidden near stairs.
Read Also >> What Is The Residential Stair Code?
Wall #4: Interior Wall Continues On Upper Or Lower Floor
Interior load bearing walls are designed to transfer load from the roof and down to the upper and main levels all the way to the foundation.
If an interior wall continues horizontally on an upper or lower floor, it is probably load bearing since it maintains the load path from the roof to foundation.
If you have an interior wall the ends somewhere in the middle of the home, and the wall continues in same direction on an upper or lower level, then it is likely a structural wall.
Wall #5: Vertically Stacked Interior Walls
If you have an interior wall in the basement, and there is a wall in the same direction directly above it, then its probably structural.
If you have to, you can take a tape measurer and figure out the distance from the exterior wall.
Verify that the wall above it is directly in the same vertical orientation and you can be sure it is probably load-bearing.
Way #6: Look At The Top Plate
This isn’t my favorite method but is a simple way to really know what’s going on especially if the framing is already open.
If the framing isn’t open, homeowners will have to cut a hole in the drywall above the wall and look at the top plate.
Older homes from the 1980’s and earlier normally only used a single top plate for non-load bearing interior walls. If you have an older home and it is a single top plate (not a double) then it is a strong indicator that it is probably NOT load-bearing.
Likewise, if there isn’t a beam or if the wall isn’t secured with brackets, then it is likely not load bearing.
Just remember that newer homes ordinarily installed double top plates on ALL interior and exterior walls in order to use the same pre-cut stud height.
Way #7: Do Roof Trusses Span Entire Home?
If your roof uses trusses that span the entire home, then the interior walls are not likely load bearing.
Roof trusses are engineered roof frames as opposed to stick built rafters. These structural roof members come in a single piece and are built in a factory.
Trusses are designed to span the entire home without the need for interior load bearing walls.
However, there is a possibility that your trusses may have been designed to have midspan support with an interior load bearing wall if there were any modifications made such as with vaulted ceilings or a finished attic space.
Use all the other clues such as posts or columns in the basement.
Way #8: Look At The Wall Openings
If you have open framing, simply look at the wall openings.
If the window or door uses a solid header, then it is likely a structural wall.
If the window use very short studs above it known as ‘cripples’ then it isn’t load bearing.
Way #9: Review Home Blueprints
Every house in the United States requires approved house plans and permits from the local county or city.
Simply head down to your local land records office or read their documents online (if available). House plans will usually designate structural walls with the letter “S” to show which wall is load bearing.
You will also be able to see which direction of the floor joists.
Way #10: Hire A Structural Engineer Or Contractor
This is a common sense move when you plan on doing a renovation that could cost $10,000 or more.
Hiring a structural engineer to evaluate your home will typically cost $400 to $500.
An engineer drawing new plans on the best way to remove and install a beam or columns will likely be another $500.
The average total for a structural engineer will be around $1,000 which is actually cheap insurance to be certain that the roof won’t collapse!
Homeowners can also hire a qualified general contractor or carpenter for an analysis of the wall. However, the contractor or carpenter may still need to have a structural engineer draw up plans in order to get city or county approval.
Way #11: Is It An Exterior Wall?
Exterior walls are almost always load bearing since they are supporting the weight of the roof and upper levels.
However, some homes built around the 1970’s to today only have the front and rear exterior walls as load bearing, so this isn’t a guarantee.
For most older homes, ALL of the exterior walls will be load bearing with a double top plate.
Way #12: Wall Thickness
The average thickness of an interior wall is about 4.5-inches which may be load or non-load bearing. However, if you have an interior wall that is thicker than normal, such as 6-inches or greater, then it is probably load bearing.
These thicker walls are framed with 2-inch by 6-inch (rather than 2×4) studs in order to carry more load.
The actual thickness is 5.5-inch and when you add 1/2″ drywall (two sides) you get 6.5-inches.
And the ‘real’ thickness for a 2×4 interior wall is 4.5-inches when you add the 1/2-inch drywall (two sides) and the actual 1.5-inch stud thickness.
Way #13: Interior Walls in the Center of the Home
Interior walls that are in the central area of the home are more likely to be load bearing.
This makes sense if you consider that the exterior walls are already commonly structural and load-bearing.
These central walls are better located to support roof or floor loads directly above it.
Way #14: Look At The Roof Ridge Line
If you want a quick way to determine whether an interior wall is load bearing, just look at the roof.
With gable roofs, the attic rafters or trusses will run parallel with the ridge of the roof.
Any interior wall that runs perpendicular or at a right angle with the roof ridge line will likely be structural.
Way #15: Look For OSB Or Plywood On Wall
If the interior or exterior wall is reinforced with OSB or plywood behind the drywall, then it is a shear wall.
Shear walls are structural in nature and help prevent the horizontal movement of the home due to earthquakes or heavy winds.
What Is Cost of Load Bearing Wall Removal?
The cost for removal of a load bearing wall will vary depending on the level of the house.
- The basement is usually the most costly since it carries the most load and typically requires steel beams.
- The main level of the home is 2nd most costly since these structural walls support the upper level and the roof.
- The highest level of the home is frequently the least expensive since it is only carrying the load of the roof.
On average, it will cost $2500 to $5000 to remove a small interior load bearing wall.
If the wall is tall or very long, then additional structural work (beams, posts. etc.) will probably be required and can cost $8k or more. If there is water piping or a gas line that needs to be re-routed, it will add costs and complexity to the project.
If you want a completely open room without a dropped beam, then it will also cost more. Avoiding a visible beam in the ceiling will require more work since the upper joists or rafters will have to be secured to the beam and can’t just be installed underneath.
If the work requires a steel beam, it will also increase the cost. Steel beams usually cost in the $3k to $5k range as compared to a standard wood beam which is in the hundreds (not thousands).
How To Remove A Load Bearing Wall
1. Get Permit With Plans By Structural Engineer
Almost all cities and counties will require a permit and approved plans. The wall removal plan will likely need to be designed and approved by a structural engineer.
2. Turn Off Any Utilities Running Through Wall
The wall will likely at least have electrical wiring to outlets and/or switches that needs to be shutoff at the breaker.
If there are any water pipes or gas pipes inside the wall, these will also need to be shutoff.
If you are uncertain about what’s inside the wall, remove one of the outlets (after turning off power) or cut an exploratory hole in the drywall.
3. Install Support Walls Or Bracing
Install two temporary walls using 2″x4″ studs (16-inch on center) with a single top plate and bottom plate. The top of the support wall will support the joists above.
Each wall should be on one side of the load-bearing wall.
Make sure that there is enough room on each side so you can easily remove the wall without the temporary walls getting in the way.
4. Remove Drywall and Studs
- Carefully remove the drywall from the load bearing wall.
- Remove the wall studs using a reciprocating saw.
- Be careful to avoid cutting electrical wire or pipes.
5. Install the Beam According To Plans
The structural beam can be either solid wood, steel, or laminated veneer lumber (LVL). How the beam is installed will depend on the plans drawn up by the engineer.
The beam may be resting on the top plate of an exterior wall or the beam may be secured to joists using brackets.
Final Thoughts
The absolute basic way to quickly get an idea whether a wall is load bearing is the perpendicular rule.
If the interior wall is running perpendicular to the joists, then it is most likely load bearing or structural. Determining the direction of the floor joists can easily be done by looking in the attic or basement utility room.
There are numerous other key indicators of whether a wall is load bearing.
Remember to get a structural engineer on your team to verify the nature of the wall and to get approved plans for the removal and new support structure.
I hope you enjoyed this guide, please leave a comment or ask me a question below!